The DIY Mod Project: 

PART I: Preparing an AR the Turntable for Mods

Supplies needed:
Phillips Screwdriver
4.0mm hex driver
2.0. hex driver
Small adjustable wrench
Two tablespoons
Scissors
Clean soft cloths (to protect table finish as you work)

The first nine pictures show the table in its original form. The Linn arm will be removed due to the lack of a cueing lever and a broken arm rest holder. Note the presence of the "Airpax" motor; it is generally more noisy than the later Hurst motors which replaced them.

Not pictured, first remove the table's bottom (if still in place), and the DIN to RCA tonearm cable. After that, use the 4.0MM hex driver to loosen the tonearm stem.

Once the arm is removed, use the 2.0mm hex driver (above)and the small adjustable wrench (below)to remove the original armboard. Save all screws and nuts.

If still in place, remove the transport screw. This may be a phillips screw or a bolt.

Next, prepare to remove the nuts which hold the springs and sub-chassis in place. Place the table on some soft clean cloths as you work on the underside. (The veneer scratches easily.)

There are a total of three spring/stud assemblies that hold the subchassis in place. Remove the nuts one at a time with the adjustable wrench.

On some occasions, the entire spring/stud assembly becomes detached from the metal part of the plinth. The photos show this happened to two out of the three assemblies. Take care removing the final spring assembly as the sub-chassis will be free to fall out.

The one remaining "stud" can be removed in one of two ways. If you are positive the stud won't be used again, tighten a vise wrench over the threads and screw it out. If you want to save the original stud, screw one nut onto the stud, followed by another. In the photos, you can see I used two wing nuts. As you turn the "inner nut" with your adjustable wrench, the "outer" nut will hold it in place, and allow you to safely turn the stud out.

This is a good point to remove the motor pulley for safe keeping. Use the table spoons, one under each side. Place something beneath each spoon to protect the metal surface. Exert steady pressure downward until the pulley is freed.

Because this unit featured the inferior Airpax motor, I decided to remove it too. I used the scissors to cut the wires half the distance to the connector. Then I used a small phillips to remove the two screws that hold the motor to the metal plate. (Save those screws, they're hard to replace.)

Due to some circular scratching on the metal plate, I decide to remove it in order to sand smooth, prime, and re-finish in satin black. This step can be skipped if the plate is in usable condition. The screws are phillips head.

Note the discoloration of the wood beneath the plate. Sometimes a lemon oil treatment will even out the color, sometimes not. In any case, it is not noticeable once the metal plate is replaced.

Leftover parts.

Before the project continues, I will prepare and repaint the metal plate.

Click here for Part II of the tutorial on how to install the Vinyl Nirvana AR Mods